Hualien

On arrival Hualien looked like a sleepy town; it was deserted a few streets away from the train station. I should have noted the location of the hostel while I still had Internet access. I wasted a few minutes looking for it.

The dorm bed was comfortable enough but other facilities had seen better days. But it was seviceable. That night I realised that the mosquito repellent vapouriser plugged into the power outlet was meant to be used. I didn't make the same mistake and get bitten the next night.

I rested, then asked where I could get an afternoon coffee. They told me to walk towards the centre until I saw the 85° shop. That chain also trades in Australia. I got a decent coffee and cake.

The picture was taken on my second outing, in the evening, to have dinner. By then I understood why it was quiet near the hostel. The train station is a couple of km out. So the hostel is handy for going to Taroko Gorge National Park by bus but not so much for the city's attractions. Can't have it both ways.

A blog had mentioned a takeaway that was famous for dumplings, both the dry and juicy varieties. A crowd was lined up to buy, as described. The line moved fast and soon I had a bag of each type for dinner for a very reasonable price.

I ate my dinner in this plaza, which has old tracks and an antique railway carriage from the era when Hualien's port was bustling.

An interesting note is that Hualien City offered free WiFi access in the plaza and I used it to check the location of the night market.

People were out strolling in the night air. It was cooler than down south, maybe a couple of degrees, but still a bit humid.

Oh, the dumplings? They were excellent but not memorable, and the distribution of the reviews supported this. I guess fame by word of mouth has a way of feeding itself, and attracting customers.

According to the reviews on the Net there were two nght markets in Hualien. One is the Rainbow Night Market to the east before reaching the ocean. This fountain is just outside the night markets.

It comprised two rows of stalls across a wide passage. Also tables behind one row. Half the shops were offering arcade games. the other half selling food and drink. There was a shorter lane at right angles to the first.

I bought a watermelon juice. In Taiwan when you buy a drink, say pearl tea, in a plastic cup, they seal the top with plastic film, using a dedicated machine. You drink through a straw that pierces the film. It's actually practical; it keeps dirt out of the drink as you carry it around and prevents spillage.

I decided not to try to reach the ocean. I guessed that the beach would probably not be attractive. I was lucky I didn't because it started raining not long after I regained the hostel.

I asked the staff about the Taroko Gorge tour advertised on their notice board. He said I could do it on my own since I understood Chinese, and gave me the departure times of the public bus from the outside of the railway station.